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When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary achievement.